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Seven Cabs and Controversy - Printable Version

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- Bucko - 08-14-2002

1999 Kenwood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Jack London Vineyard, California, $35, 10,500 cases. The nose and palate agree on the black fruit, cedar, tobacco, and earthy notes. A deft hand on the French oak is refreshing. Impeccably balanced, the wine is approachable now but will be better in 3-4 years. 88/88.

1998 Langtry, Meritage Red Wine, 59% Napa/41% Lake County, California, $55, 4,081 cases. Guenoc managed to do well with this Cabernet predominant Meritage from a difficult vintage. Lacking the depth of some prior vintages, this wine nevertheless offers lovely dark fruit flavors, oak spice and mocha mix, with an ever so slight bit of earthiness. Match with pork tenderloin and mushroom risotto. 88/86.

2000 Mettler, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, California, $24. My first bottle from the Mettler Family was a pleasant one. There are enough black cherries, plums, raspberries and mocha to please most everyone. The tannins are ripe and hearty. A nice value in today's market. 88/89.

1999 Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, $30. Stepping up on the soap box for a moment, I have noticed Mondavi wines being maligned by various critics recently. This may be due to the fact that the wines (as a whole) are not made in a full-extract, overblown, oaky, high alcohol, low acid style. I find it very refreshing to work my way through the Mondavi line, which displays lean to medium-weight wines, with crisp acidity, 13.5% alcohol and modest oak flavors. You can actually drink these wines with food. I say hurrah for Mondavi making food wines, not critic wines. Now, on to the tasting note. This ruby red new release is bursting with aromas of violets, cassis, spice and chocolate, made in a medium-bodied style. Aromas echo on the palate, with a touch of dark roast coffee. The wine is very harmonious and has no heat from the alcohol, which is welcomed. 90/90.

1999 Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville AVA, California, $50. Bottled without fining or filtering, this dark ruby wine presents cassis, blackberries, Asian spices and French oak to the senses. A muscular wine, this one needs a few years in the bottle to tone down the tannins and allow the wine to show its stuff. 92+/90+.

1999 Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, California, $50. A complex nose of black currants, licorice, violets and mint is followed by flavors of same, with added cedar nuances. Like the Oakville, this one needs bottle time. While my wife liked this wine the best, I give the nod to the Oakville. 91/89.

1998 Simi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Alexander Valley, California, $70, 4,601 cases. Just simply beautiful aromas of blackberries, blueberries, vanilla and chocolate cherries highlight this purple-hued wine. Flavors of blueberries, black cherries, vanilla and cedar are balanced by ripe tannins. The elegant finish is endless. Not bad for the ignored 1998 vintage. 90/87.