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Sure, there are all those "free" publications you pick up at the hotels and stores in the wine country. Some are pretty good and the overall quality has improved over the years, but keep in mind they are all based on paid advertising. A book has to compete on the basis of accuracy and objectivity and ease of use as a reference. Since Napa is still the most popular destination in California, I will suggest my favorite touring guide, THE VINTAGE IMAGE NAPA VALLEY WINE TOUR BOOK ($6.95), by Jeff Caldeway. A little dated now, but still the best bang for the buck. Many objective insights into the restaurants, B&Bs and off-the-beaten- track wineries.

Due to the crowds in Napa at this time of the year, I generally steer my out of town friends to the Sonoma Valley. There is a dandy new guide book just published: SONOMA VALLEY, The Secret Wine Country ($12.95), by Kathleen and Gerald Hill. This is a well organized, well researched and authoritative guide by a local couple with 20 years of experience in "The Valley." Everything you will need to know about Sonoma visiting, even beyond the wineries. Includes good critiques of shops, restaurants, accommodations and historic sites. Even clubs, churches, public telephones and the all important locations of public bathrooms are included. By far the best on the subject available. But note that it is Sonoma Valley only, not the entire county. Paperback, 302 pages.

For entire Sonoma County, including such important places as Anderson Valley, Russian River, Santa Rosa area, etc., I recommend Timothy Fish's NAPA & SONOMA BOOK, A Complete Guide ($14.95)). Paperback, 304 pages.

Off to France soon? Check out the definitive guides by the peripatetic Hubrecht Duijker: LOIRE, A Wine Lover's Touring Guide, ALSACE, A Wine Lover's Touring Guide, and BORDEAUX, A Wine Lover's Touring Guide ($15.95 each). These books are simply high quality. They are the right size, easy to use, very authoritative and very well packaged. High quality paper and binding (will not fall apart after being sweated on in your back pocket), full color, meaningful illustrations and excellent maps.

These books are by one of the world's top wine professionals. His vineyard and restaurant recommendations are based on personal experience and I will swear by his wine tasting notes. I would avoid any other wine touring books written by "travel writers" and published by the big travel book companies. You know the ones I mean. They may be good on museums and hotels but can be a real disappointment on the wine and food. Paperback, 144 pages each.

If you are going to France to buy wine (as the British do every weekend now that the Chunnel is open), I recommend BUYING WINE IN FRANCE, The Traveler's Guide to Chateaux and Vineyards ($12.95), by Hilary Wight. No pictures, a few small maps but lots of good advice on how to plan your buying journey and where to get the best deals. Good tips on "getting along and getting around." I found his advice on buying wine "en vrac" or in bulk quite fascinating. Bring your own large plastic containers and tell the vintner to "fill 'em up." He does note that the best wines are not sold this way. Alsace, Champagne, Burgundy, The Maconnal, Beaujolais, Northern Rhone, The Loire and Bordeaux are all covered. Even if you never visit France to buy wine, you will find this book quite amusing and interesting. Paperback, 300 pages.

Going to Germany? THE WINE ATLAS OF GERMANY, A Traveller's Guide to the Vineyards ($45.00), by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson is essential. Updated in 1995 with superb new maps and detailed notes on accommodations and restaurants, this is a beautiful and useful book. Stuart Pigott is the most respected English language writer on German wines. Large format hardbound, 236 pages. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

For the Australia bound traveler, the best and most current book is AUSTRALIAN WINE, A Pictorial Guide ($35.95), by Tom Hardy and Milan Roden. This is their second book of this type on Australia, the first was a best seller and sold out for several years.

Artistically, this book is second to none! Milan Roden is one of the great scenic photographers of our generation. He captured feeling and light characteristic of the French Impressionist painters. Unfortunately he died from cancer recently, shortly after the book came off the printing press. This will be the last of his five great wine photography books and will no doubt become a collector's item much as Ansel Adams original books. The writing was done by Thomas Hardy, third generation of the great Hardy wine family of "down under." Hardy has spent his life in the Australian wine scene. He knows it all about the wineries and their owners, but he only tells the nice things in this book. The history, touring information and personal insights of Hardy are good reading. Large format hardbound, 352 pages. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

FOOD & WINE OF FRANCE ($16.95) by Roger Voss is billed as "a perfect travel guide for those who love wine, food and France." I can agree with that, as this is a very attractive full color book with great recipes and real professional insights into the foods of different regions and relationship of the wine of that region. Large format paperback, 160 pages. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED if you are a "foodie."

This article would not be complete without a critique of at least one new "beginner's book on wine." SHORTCUTS ON WINE, Everything the Wine Lover Needs to Know, ($10.95) by Edmond Masciana is one of the better small guides that has been published since Leon Adams' COMMONSENSE BOOK OF WINE. Unlike most of the recent little wine books published, this one is by a professional wine educator who not only knows his wines but knows how to make it meaningful for the novice. Accurate, reliable and user- friendly. All that you could ask for in this kind of book. Paperback, 120 pages. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND this book for a young person who is graduating from beer to wine.

They keep telling me that spirits are on the way back. Well, books on the subject certainly are booming. Maybe it is all those new cigar smokers who are boning up on their whiskies and brandies. THE POCKET WHISKY BOOK, A Guide to Malt, Grain, Liqueur and Leading Blended Whiskies ($12.95) by Charles MacLean is already a best seller in the U.K. It's strength is in its coverage of the blended Scotches which is what most people drink when they order "Scotch and Soda," etc. This is a book for the unsophisticated Scotch drinker who is interested in upgrading his/her knowledge. However, there are some interesting pages on collecting whiskies and recent auction prices. No Irish or other whiskies of other origin are included. Hardbound, 192 pages.

(Editor's Note: In the event that you have difficulty finding any of the books reviewed by Sullivan, please note that virtually every wine title in print, and many which are not, are available from The Wine Trader. Feel free to call for information on hard-to-find titles.)