It isn't always necessary to take a trip to visit wine country. Get a few friends together and pick a wine region from which to try a wide array of wines. It could be Napa, Sonoma, Tuscany or the Loire Valley of France.

For such a sampling you can serve up to 18 people from a single bottle by giving each an ounce and a half taste. So having six to eight wines over a period of several hours, along with finger foods, is still well with in the bounds of moderation.

I recently did such an armchair tour of Monterey County, with a much larger array of wines. Professionals can do that (wine judges often taste 100 wines a day), but keep in mind that only a sip or two is being taken and often much of that is expectorated...alright, spat out!

If you want to take a real tour of Monterey Wine Country you can ask for a free Monterey Wine Tasting Guide, which is really a full color, fold-out map with a listing of all the county's wineries, including addresses, phones and hours open to the public. The guide is free for the asking if you call (831) 375-9400.

Regarding the wines reviewed below, some have broad national distribution, others are much more limited. The phone number above (Monterey Vintners & Growers) will also help you with questions of retail availability.

Hess Select 1997 Chardonnay ($10) This one doesn't say Monterey on the label, but it comes from predominantly Monterey fruit. Pleasant melon and tropical fruit with nice little vanillin notes. Alas! It has a sweet impression that some may like, but that I find off-putting. Better at cocktail time than with food. Rating: 84/84

Cobblestone 1997 "Arroyo Seco" Chardonnay ($22.50) A big, juicy, "fruit bomb" style with tropical flavors. Rich; highly oaked. Match it with lobster or crab in Mornay sauce. Rating: 87/84

San Saba 1997 "Monterey" Chardonnay ($20) The favorite label of the night, with its picture of a pride of lions. Melon and very ripe apple fruit. Soft vanilla with a little nutmeg spice in the background. Rating: 86/83

Morgan 1996 "Reserve" Chardonnay ($25) Smoky, toasty, very overt oak vanillin on apple fruit with layers and layers of flavors and complexity. Rating: 90/84

Boyer 1997 Chardonnay ($13) Call it the most underpriced wine of the group. This one will compete with wines in the $20-$30 range. Delicious, very appealing from first sniff through last taste. Delicate tropical flavors with absolutely perfect wood notes, smoky, toasty, barrel-char complexity. Rating: 95/95

Cloninger 1997 "Monterey" Pinot Noir ($22) Very elegant, crushed rose, light cranberry and very light cherry with a bit of rose petal complexity. This delicate wine won't age well, but it's wonderful right now and the perfect match for a grilled salmon. Rating: 90/85

Estancia 1996 "Pinnacles" Pinot Noir ($15) Earthy, dying rose bouquet, on plum and black cherry fruit. Very complex with earthy-smoky after-flavors. Rating: 90/90

Scheid Vineyards 1997 "Monterey" Pinot Noir ($25) Very ripe plum and sweet raw beet flavors and some black cherry too. Very intense with some earthy, mushroom quality in the aftertaste. Moderate tannin level. Rating: 89/84

Paraiso Springs 1996 Syrah ($22.50) Big, youthful plum and boysenberry fruit. Mouthfilling, jammy and fruity. A little pricey. Rating: 86/82

Ventana 1997 Syrah ($16) Mostly berry fruit and nicely structured to be a food companion. It seems several years older than it actually is, with some smoky complexity. Lovely now, will improve further with age. Rating: 89/87

Rancho Galante 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) Very youthful. Big, deep black cherry and black currant fruit. Highly extracted, with a moderately high tannin level, but with enough fruit to sustain it through softening in time. Needs a minimum 3-5 years cellaring. Rating: 90/87

Jekel 1995 "Sanctuary" ($26) A Meritage-style blend of all five of the top Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Beautifully balanced and elegant red, with berry, plum and cassis flavors. Nicely wooded. Feels good in the mouth and lingers pleasantly on the palate. Rating: 92/85

BEST BUY
WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

Maddalena 1997 Johannisberg Riesling ($8) This wine is so consistent from vintage to vintage that I could just about use my review of the 1996 wine word for word. Green apple tart with German-like mineral-petroleum notes. Crisp and refreshing with good fruit, acidity and just a touch of sweetness. Perfect brunch or cracked crab wine. Case purchases recommended for summer sipping. Rating: 90/95

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

Chateau Julien 1996 "Grand Reserve" Merlot ($10) I'm not sure why this good Carmel Valley winery calls its least expensive wines "Grand Reserve," but they do. Ignoring that marketing hype, this is one very tasty, user friendly $10 wine. Mostly plum flavor with some cherry and just what most folks want a Merlot to be...full of flavor but with no harshness or astringency. Rating: 87/95

COMPETITION SEASON

The 1999 wine competition season is about to begin. Both the New World International and the Dallas Morning News National are scheduled for February. The New World is usually first to announce awards.

Based on early reports, it will be a record year for wines evaluated. The New World appears to be up more than 200 entries over 1998's nearly 2000.

The number of entries in wine competitions seems to relate directly to the financial wellbeing of the industry and to the general availability of supply. In short years, or years of financial difficulty, entries go down in number or stay flat. Increased entries is a sign of plentiful supply and strong sales.

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.