© 1998 JDM Enterprises
Vineyard Named For Soilby Jerry D. Mead
You may be familiar with the vineyard and winery named Lockwood. It's a top medal winner and has been around for more than a little while, but few people realize it isn't named after "Joe Lockwood," but rather for a rocky soil ideal for grapegrowing called "Lockwood shaly loam." Lockwood is a nearly 2000 acre vineyard in Monterey selling grapes to famous wineries all over the state (yes, some of those famous ones in Napa and Sonoma). They keep just a small percentage of the grapes they grow for their own wines, and of course they're going to tell us they keep the very best for themselves.
We will give the folks who own Lockwood credit for one bit of wisdom. After a number of years of award-winning effort, instead of just giving winemaker Steve Pessagno a raise, they married him to the winery...they made him a partner. Ownership being a big time motivator, the wines may get even better than they currently are.
At Lockwood, all wines are "Estate" wines. They grow all their own fruit, buy no grapes from other growers, nor any bulk wines.
Lockwood also makes a line of "Partner's Reserve" wines which are usually worth the extra bucks. "Reserve" doesn't always mean older at Lockwood, but it almost always means added intensity from select vineyard lots, better cooperage and extended wood aging.
Lockwood 1997 Sauvignon Blanc ($10.50) Tart-sweet grapefruit, lemon-grass and a little new mown hay. Very crisp, pleasantly tart finish. A wine to hold up to oysters or clams on the half-shell. Rating: 87/86
Lockwood 1996 Pinot Blanc ($13.50) Melon fruit with earthy-flinty notes. Leaner and more taut than Chardonnay and also much more food compatible that most Chardonnays. A delicious white wine with an elegant structure and mouthfeel. Rating: 92/86
Lockwood 1996 Chardonnay ($16) Straightforward fruit style, with melon and tropical flavors. Too subtle an oak presence, even though barrel-fermented. Rating: 86/82
Lockwood 1995 "Reserve" Chardonnay ($21.50) Riper, richer style with a bigger, bolder oak statement. Roasty, toasty, slightly smoky barrel char aromas and flavors on top of mostly tropical fruit...heavy on the guava and papaya. Rating: 89/84
Lockwood 1996 Sangiovese ($16) Mostly plum with some black cherry fruit. Flavor intensifies throughout the taste experience. It has long after-flavors and Merlot drinkers will enjoy it for its accessibility and absence of harsh tannins. Rating: 88/84
Lockwood 1995 Merlot ($18) A really big mouthful of wine for a Merlot. Mostly black cherry flavors. Soft enough for beginners; bold enough for the connoisseur crowd. Rating: 88/84
Lockwood 1995 "Reserve" Merlot ($25) Very similar in style and taste to the "Estate" version, but with more concentration, intensity and wood too. Rating: 92/84
Lockwood 1995 Syrah ($15) Winemaker Pessagno gets plum and cherry fruit flavors. I get more berry notes. We both pick up peppery spice in the background. It's blended to 5 percent Cabernet Franc and is another contender in the Lockwood red wine stable. Rating: 88/86
Lockwood 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon ($16) Very pleasant, though it smells and tastes very young for a '95. Black currant flavors dominate with some black cherry undertones. Nicely wooded. Rating: 89/84
Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates
quality; second number rates value. |
© 1998 JDM Enterprises.
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