Mead On Wine

© 1997 JDM Enterprises
All Rights Reserved
Vol. I No. 23


FREEBIE

by Jerry D. Mead



Don't say I never told you how to get something for nothing. And this "freebie" is more than worth the 32-cent stamp to write and request it.

The German Wine Information Bureau commissioned Ronn Weigand to write a booklet titled Balance of Flavors: German Wine & Food Pairing Guide.

Even though he spells his first name funny, Weigand knows his stuff. He was the first person in the whole, wild world to qualify for both "Master of Wine" and "Master Sommelier" titles. He is also co-publisher of Restaurant Wine, a newsletter subscribed to by both consumers and trade.

There an amazing amount of information in this 16 pages, from which even the knowledgeable wine drinker is likely to pick up a new fact or two, and which will provide the novice with a bounty of information. Some of the information applies not just to German wines, but to German varieties (like Riesling) wherever they may be grown, and the rules for wine-food matches are pretty universal.

There are descriptions of the major grapes grown in Germany (including some you might not think of like Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc) and what the wines made from them taste like.

There are general recommendations of what style wine to drink with general food flavors, such as spicy/hot, oily/fatty, fishy, herbal and so on. There are recommendations for what to drink with ethnic foods like Mexican, Indonesian, Chinese and Cajun.

Then it works the other way...telling what food would work best with specific wines from specific regions.

And as a bonus, there's a guide to reading a German wine label, which while simplified over the years can still be pretty tricky.

For your freebie, write to: Balance of Flavors, c/o German Wine Bureau, 79 Madison Ave., NY, NY 10016.

MUST GO

If you never visited German wine country, in particular that area near Koblenz and the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel (and their nearby and various tributaries), then you really must make it a destination for the future. I don't know anyone who has been who does not think it the most beautiful grape growing region in the world.

I've never been at harvest time, and I just can't imagine how some of the vineyards have their grapes picked, nor how the vines are pruned and cultivated. The steeply terraced vineyard rows seem to go straight up from the river banks, at angles that would defy a sure-footed mountain goat.

Then there's another beautiful castle around virtually every bend in the river, some of which are open to visitors. You can drive up and down both sides of both rivers, visiting a variety of charming small towns and villages, or you can take modern excursion boats or luxurious barges on which you can live like on a cruise ship.

If you can't tell, I'm inspired by a recent visit.

You can request touring information, festival dates and other travel information from the German Wine Information Bureau's East or West Coast offices. (I probably should have called them myself, but I procrastinated.) Call either (212) 213-7028 or (916) 631-1532.

TRAVEL TIP

Always pack a few bottles of top American wines with you when you travel in Europe. People in the wine business that you may encounter, or just wine lovers, will really enjoy tasting some of our better stuff. Too much of what they see is the low end wines with very high mark-ups. They've read how good California, Washington and Oregon wines are supposed to be, but few of them have actually tasted an example.

As an example, Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon which retail here for $6 to $8, was on the wine list at Frankfurt Sheraton at $35 the bottle. Fetzer's 1993 "Barrel Select" Zinfandel (about a $12 retail at home) was $50 on the same list.

So you see, not too many Europeans have the opportunity to taste our goodies. Granted I'm a real wine crazy (I packed 18 bottles with me), but if you take even a bottle or three, I can almost promise you a rewarding experience when you find the opportunity to share it.

BOGLE BEST BUYS

I've reviewed these good value wines before on numerous occasions. There never fails to be more than a few "Best Buys" in any vintage collection. Part of their secret to good wines and good value is that Bogle is major grape grower, which helps keep costs in line.

Located in the Sacramento River Delta, about halfway between the Bay Area and Reno, Bogle also just opened a tasting room to greet visitors. For visits or to inquire about local outlets for the wines: Bogle Vineyards, 37783 Road 144, Clarksburg, CA 95612 (916) 744-1139.

Space won't permit in-depth reviews of all the wines, but I'd give 90 or more points for value, and quality scores in the mid-80s, to all of the following: 1996 Fume Blanc, 1995 Chardonnay, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995 Merlot and the 1994 Zinfandel "Old Vines" just missed with an 86/89.

BEST BUY WINE OF THE WEEK

Bogle 1995 Petite Sirah ($9) This amazing wine wins gold medals year after year, and even claimed the trophy for "Best New World Petite Sirah" a couple of years back. It's big and chewy but friendly. Plum and black cherry fruit and something kind of smoky. Match it with bold flavors, venison maybe, or duck, rabbit or barbecued ribs. It's an under $10 wine that will improve with cellaring for 5-10 years. Solid "Best Buy." Case purchases highly recommended. Rating: 88/95

Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.



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Latest Update: July 5, 1997