Mead On Wine

© 1996 JDM Enterprises
All Rights Reserved
Vol. H No. 41


MORE L.A. RESULTS

by Jerry D. Mead

Not enough people see the results of major wine competitions. They really are wonderful shopping guides, and the professional panels of judges that determine the winners are working blind (they don't know what brands they're tasting, nor the prices of the wines), and in such an atmosphere "the cream really does rise to the top."

Most wine magazines won't publish the results because they see wine competitions as, well...competition. They have their own tasting panels, which are in effect their own little wine judgings every month, so they don't want to publicize someone else's.

And most wine columnists think they always have to tell you what "they" think, and so once again wine competitions come up short on the publicity front.

Then there's guys like me who tell you how important the results are and that you should even check out the silver and bronze medalists, and then only tells you about the golds. Go figure.

You can bypass all that by ordering the official awards book of the Los Angeles County Fair "Wines of the Americas" Competition by sending $5 (includes postage) to: L.A. Wine Winners, Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702 (800) 845-9463.

Cabernet Sauvignon is such a large class that L.A. breaks it down into vintage classes for judging.

In the 1994 vintage class golds were awarded to Geyser Peak "Alexander Valley Reserve," Venezia "Alexander Valley - Meola Vineyards" and Napa Ridge "North Coast."

A couple of interesting side notes: Venezia is the new super-premium label of Geyser Peak, and while two out these three winners are premium priced, the Napa Ridge sells for less than $10...way less!

A half dozen golds were presented to wines from the 1993 vintage: Chateau Ste. Michelle "Cold Creek Vineyard" (Best of Class); Chateau Ste. Michelle "Columbia Valley"; Fetzer "North Coast-Barrel Select"; Gary Farrell "Sonoma-Ladi's Vineyard"; Sequoia Grove "Napa Valley" and Whitehall Lane "Napa-Morisoli Vineyard-Reserve."

From the 1992 vintage, we mentioned the overall sweepstakes winning De Loach "Russian River-O.F.S." Cabernet in last week's column and it was joined in the gold medal circle by Jarvis "Napa Valley" and Sierra Vista "El Dorado - Five Star Reserve."

More gold medals from 1991, a total of five Cabernets earned the distinction: Folie A Deux "Napa Valley Reserve"; Heitz "Napa-Trailside Vineyard"; Martz "Mendocino County"; Michel-Schlumberger "Dry Creek Valley Reserve" and Rubissow-Sargent "Napa Valley-Mt. Veeder." And finally, one gold medal Cabernet from 1991: York Mountain "San Luis Obispo County."

Sauvignon Blanc is the other major premium white wine variety (other than Chardonnay, that is), and generally speaking is more compatible with a wider range of food flavors. Add that to the fact that it's usually several dollars a bottle less expensive both at retail and in restaurants and you begin to understand its rapidly growing popularity.

Flavors range from the citrus (grapefruit and lemon), to the minty or mildly herbaceous, to the downright green flavors of grass or bell pepper. Then there's the "poor man's Chardonnay" style that has so much oak presence that oak is all you taste. They all have their place at the table. Fume Blanc, by the way, is just a synonym for Sauvignon Blanc.

The L.A. judges found lots of SBs to like, and they seemed to like them young and fresh since all the winners came from either the 1995 or 1994 vintages.

First the 1995 golds: Alderbrook 1995 "Sonoma-Dry Creek Valley"; Canyon Road "California"; Chateau Souverain "Alexander Valley"; Corbett Canyon "Coastal Classic"; De Loach "Russian River-Fume"; Hogue "Columbia Valley (Washington)-Fume"; Mission View "S.L.O. Estate" and Rochioli "Russian River Valley."

The Canyon Road sells for about $5 to $6, and three previous vintages have been the medal winningest Sauvignon Blancs of their respective years, against wines selling for three times as much. You can't beat that track record for being a medal winner or a "Best Buy."

And the five 1994 gold Sauvignon Blancs were: Dry Creek Vineyard "Dry Creek Valley Reserve"; Fetzer "North Coast-Barrel Select"; Grgich Hills "Napa Valley-Fume"; Kendall-Jackson "Vintner's Reserve-Fume" and Lakewood "Clear Lake."

Remember, I've only touched on the hundreds of wonderful wines honored at this show. Not only have I failed to report on any of the medalists from important classes such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Sparkling Wines, Meritage, Johannisberg Riesling and many more, but of the classes I have reported on I've given you only gold medalists and sweepstakes winners. As often as not, the silver and bronze medal winners are as good as the top medalists, sometimes cost less money and are more widely available. You really should write for the complete list.


BEST BUY WINE OF THE WEEK

Michele Chiarlo 1995 "Nivole" Moscato D'Asti ($8.50 for 375ml) The only real criticism I have of this Italian white dessert wine is that it comes in those little bitty half-size bottles that are not nearly large enough, even for two people...and the fact that it isn't quite as wonderful as the vintage I gave a perfect 100 points to about three years ago. It is bite-of-the-grape delicious. It has tingly-tangy effervescence that tickles your mouth. It has only 7 percent alcohol which allows you to drink twice as much (and you'll want to because it tastes so good). And it is absolutely ambrosial with flavors of peach, pear, nectarines, lichee and kumquat and probably some other fruits I failing to identify. Drink it all by itself anytime, or with fresh fruit desserts, or with a Lorna Doone or lapped out of your lover's navel like a little kitty cat. I know I'm talking funny...this wine does that to me. Rating: 96/90

Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.


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Latest Update: November 2, 1996