TN '83 Mouton
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- Karena Shannon - 01-12-1999 12:39 AM
This is the way to celebrate your anniversary. We were delighted to have this with Prime N.Y.â€™s in a shittake-red wine reduction made with a half cup of the previous dayâ€™s â€™95 La Cardonne. Good fill, cork looked to be in good condition,
Color was medium red, no brown at edge. After an hour to an hour and a half in the decanter, a very complex nose was revealed. Black currants, strawberries, tobacco, smoke, passion fruit(!): we smelled something different every time we went back, but did not pick up the â€œlead pencilâ€ that I understand is typical for this property. Probably could sit on this wine a little longer, but we found it very enjoyable right now. The wine wasnâ€™t as silky or as big as the â€™85 Latour that Tex brought to the Napa Off-line, but it was much more complex on the nose. Itâ€™s hard to picture what a â€œgreatâ€ vintage of this wine must taste like!
Picked this up almost three years ago, so the price was â€œreasonableâ€. Iâ€™m not sure Iâ€™d drop, whatâ€¦the buck-eighty that this now commands on the secondary market (which is still cheaper than the 250 that the â€™95 and â€™96 are going for now).
A funny thing though, this wine wasnâ€™t all that great for the first sixty minutes it was open. I mean, it wasnâ€™t bad, but if weâ€™d tried this at a tasting, weâ€™d have wondered what all the hype and fuss for this chateau was about. It really brought it home for me that wine tasting is rather subjective and irreproducible. To quote a clichÃ©, all weâ€™re really getting when we taste a wine is a snapshot of it, at that particular moment in time. All of our anecdotes about opened bottles of wine changing over a day or two in the fridge---sometimes getting better, most of them turning to vinegar---further reinforce this idea. In addition, this continues to call into question for me the aura of absolute finality that many critics attach to their judgments.