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+--- Thread: italian wine industry (/thread-2866.html)
- jeffkendig - 10-11-1999
I'm a student at Middlebury College and I was wondering if anyone has any information on the changes in Italian wine in recent years. Specifically with regard to the DOC and DOCG and how italian wine used to be regarded almost as a joke but is now accepted worldwide as some of the best wine. Also, how "vino da tavola" was once the best wine you could get in italy due to the govt. restrictions on the industry. Does anyone know anything about this topic or know where I can find some useful information about it? Thanks.
- Jason - 10-13-1999
You're opening a huge can of worms with the DOCGs. The Italian government can't even decide what the official list is.
There have been great changes to their industry, but most of it has been the govt. catching up with what the vintners were already doing.
Vino de Tavola is not always great stuff its just the place where the rebels had to run before the feds changed their rules.
You're into a very large subject here. Give us some specific questions and we'll do our best.
- jeffkendig - 10-14-1999
When did the govt. implement the DOC? And then when did it start the DOCG? I need a little bit of basic history on the govt. regulation. I know vino da tavola is no longer the best. However, for a number of years, it WAS considered excellent. Then the govt. changed their rules and the vino da tavola became govt. regulated and so raised its price. Also, where do the super-tuscans fit into this whole thing? Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
- Jason - 10-14-1999
According to Stevenson's book the whole DOC system was started in 1963 and DOCG was created at the same time.I would suggest looking at this book in the intro section to Italy. It describes the evolution very well, and goes into Goria's law in 1992 that created the IGT level between VDT and DOC.
I think we need some clarification on VDT.
The category has been a catch all for simple table wines hence the name and wines that did not meet DOC rules.
Generally the rules were broken with reference to the grapes used. Until a couple of years ago, Chianti producers had to use white grapes in the blend, (Malvasia and Trebbiano). This was obviously not a quality choice, but an attempt by the govt. to get rid of these grapes somehow. Quality minded producers did not favor this, and would not use the white grapes or use something really strange (like Cabernet). Either of these changes would bump you out of DOC status and you would then go down to VDT level. This is how we wound up with such a large spectrum of quality within VDT.
The Tuscans were at the fore on this because they had the largest disparity between existing laws and quality standards.
As noted, the laws have caught up with the producers (I.E. you can now use small amounts of Cab or you can use 100% Sangiovese)so many of the well regarded VDT's no longer have to be so. They could opt to call themselves Chianti Classico Riserva, but have already established their presence where they are, and see no reason to change.
We are now seeing similiar scenarios in other regions such as Veneto. We are seeing "Super Venetian" wines because they also are not happy with the mandated (three grape) blend in their region.
I hope this also answers the Super Tuscan question, albeit indirectly.