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+--- Thread: Pinot in 1997--Russian River Valley (/thread-19663.html)
- pergamum - 06-01-2000
Does anyone know if the Russian River Valley had a good year in 1997, particularly with Pinot Noir? I just had some Alderbrooke '97 and it "left something to be desired." Also, can anyone suggest a good producer in the RRV? Thanks.
- Randy Caparoso - 06-02-2000
Nothing wrong with the vintage, my friend. To put it kindly, Alderbrook is simply not a major player in Russian River Valley style (broad, velvety, smoky/spicy) Pinot Noir. The big guns include the likes of Williams Selyem, Rochioli, and Dehlinger -- all very difficult to obtain, but hey, you wanted to know -- who all put out batteries of fine, intense, laudably well balanced (for Russian River, which sometimes can be coarse) wines. But even wineries like "J," De Loach (their "O.F.S.") and Iron Horse (their Green Valley appellation is but an extension of the Russian River) put out some fine and silky '97 Pinot Noirs. A real sleeper for me has been the '97 Keegan -- rich, earthy, and plump with sweet/spicy fruit.
The '98 vintage was more challenging (weather-wise), but the learning curve in this region has been so steep that the ones that I've tasted so far have also been uniformly outstanding. Good stuff. No worries. The 1998s will be just fine.
If you like the Russian River style, you should also explore the Pinot Noirs from the nearby Sonoma Coast region. Top producers working with fruit from there include Flowers, Siduri, Kistler and Whitcraft.
Then there is the more northerly and cool climate defined Anderson Valley in Mendocino. The yet-to-be-released 1998 Duckhorn "Golden Eye" will be a giant. I just tasted a pure Mendocino cuvee made by Jim Clendenen under his Ici-La/Bas label -- liquid dynamite. The '98 is Clendenen's second vintage carrying this appellation in unadulturated form (he also makes Oregon and Oregon/Mendocino Pinot Noirs under the Ici-La/Bas moniker). Although lesser known, I suspect that Mendocino Pinot Noirs will soon surpass even the Russian River in the gutsy yet velvet lined, spicy/smoky style people associate with these regions. If anything, the Russian River producers will probably steer themselves into finer, silkier styles, less oakier and volatile than before. Why? Because they can!
[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 06-01-2000).]
- pergamum - 06-02-2000
Thanks Randy! I'm glad to have someone to pass on info of this calibur, it's difficult to get people to cut the chase (if you know what I mean) : ).
Also, as I'm an amateur connoisseur of wine (I've been sampling for about three years now, but I have no delusions of grandeur), I'm still a little uneasy about forking out hard earned cash for what others refer to as "an excellent wine." Are these wines really worth it man? How do they store?
I'm very relieved--I thought the Alderbrook had been damaged in the shipping process. . .Didn't receive the wine for one-half month; then, finally, on the hottest day of the year in New York, they send the gosh darn wine! Those ba_ _ _ rds!
- Bucko - 06-02-2000
Now, continuing the Point, Counterpoint, let me give you my take on the RRV Pinots. W-S is overpriced and overrated IMO. Dehlinger used to be tops, but has become considerably oakier since 1994 -- I no longer purchase the wine. Rochioli is nice, expensive, and impossible to find. DeLoach is okay. My favorite wasn't mentioned by RC -- Swan. I love their earthy style of Pinot Noir, especially the Estate bottling.
Bucko
- Randy Caparoso - 06-02-2000
Well, even I have been disenchanted with some recent vintages and cuvees by Williams-Selyem, Rochioli and Dehlinger, Bucko. But I had to admit that they all did great jobs in '97, and reports on the '98s are quite enthusiastic! It's that learning curve I was talking about.
- winoweenie - 06-03-2000
As a fan of both Swan and Dehlinger ( Who by the way got his original pinot cuttings from Big Joe ) my tastes have been tilted slightly toward Dehlinger, especially since Joes death. Since Tom Dehlinger and Ken Burnap came back from Burgandy and re-trellised and re-spaced their vineyards, I personally think their quality has gone up. The Santa Cruz Mtn. pinots of Kens age extremely well ( Had a bottle of the 75 last month and it was extrodinary ) and are quite big originally, but do reward you for a little patience. So you`re the ONE that dropped off Toms` list last year. You made someone in Shawnee happy. Also when Fred Scherrer left Tom and started his own winery there was a small time-frame, and re-learning that was experienced. I still think that Dehlinger gives lots of bang for the buck. Winoweenie
- Bucko - 06-03-2000
Santa Cruz Mt. Pinots are amazing for their ageability -- even longer than Joe's old Pinots.
Bucko
- Caesar - 06-03-2000
Most of my limited experience with California Pinot Noir has been in Carneros. I don't drink a lot of Pinot, usually preferring big, chewy Cabernets and Sirah. What's the differance in styles between Carneros, RRV, and Burgundy?
Thanks, Caesar.
- winoweenie - 06-03-2000
Bucko, They are amazing, and consistant vintage ot vintage. Ken also made some wonderful cabs from the Bates vineyard until they decided they could do a better job themselves. NOT! Also Ken has started making that marvelous Duriff ( His name for Petite Sirah ) again. Boy I`ve had some marvelous nites draped around one of those early bottles. Before Joe died I used to spend a lot of time with June and him on the screened porch in the back of the house and normally after our 2 or 3rd bottle Joe would go up front and dig under the front porch for some of his early treasures. ( This was before he expanded the garage and put in an actual storage area. I think his 75 Pinot is still one of my great wine memories. Winoweenie
- Randy Caparoso - 06-04-2000
Caesar: Nothing is like Burgundy, which enjoys an enormous range of styles and enviable levels of quality. Generalizations are difficult; but if anything, there is always more potential for ultimate levels of delicacy and complexity in red Burgundy, which invariably make California style Pinot Noirs taste crude and rough by comparison. That's why many Pinot lovers look for Oregon for Burgundy-like quality; and indeed, the better Oregon Pinots (Ken Wright, Archery Summit, Chehalem, Cristom, the "Reserves" of Rex Hill and Erath, to name just some of the many) also make even the better California Pinots taste crude and rough. In virtually every year (unless, of course, you're accustomed to the bigger California style).
For me, Carneros style Pinot Noirs have always been a love/hate thing. There is a tendency towards a sweet/sour cherry varietal quality in the perfume, and a rough, coarse edge in the richer styles. But when the Carneros style is well balanced, it can be quite velvety and compellingly fragrant. In my personal opinion, only Tony Soter's Etude bottlings -- artful blends of optimal plantings -- have consistently achieved this mark in recent years. Some of the bottlings by Cosentino and Gloria Ferrer, however, have surprised even finicky ol' me.
The attraction of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has no doubt been their multifaceted, spicy varietal definitions, breathy aromas, and broad yet rounded textures. They are often so rich, they are lavished by rather pungent, smoky oak. At their worse, they are dull, hard, and coarsely oaked. Vosne-Romanee wannabes. The quality, in other words, can be mixed; yet very satisfying when good.
If you're interested in a style than bridges the exuberant, intense style of the North Coast with the silky delicacy of Oregon and Burgundy, I would strongly recommend exploring the Pinot Noirs of the Central Coast -- Santa Barbara (made up of Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley), and the nearby Edna Valley and San Luis Obispo regions. Producers like Au Bon Climat, Lane Tanner, Foxen, Talley, Costa de Oro, and Fiddlehead regularly hit the bulls eye seemingly with ease. Most of it has to do with the climate -- consistently the coolest in the state -- and the sandy and/or gravelly soils. It also has to do with a strong French-inspired sensibility in the winemaking and viticulture, similar to what you find in Oregon. The wines from this region can be the most powerful from along the West Coast, yet layered in velvet and lace.
My latest personal favorite from the Central Coast? A tiny new winery called Domaine Alfred, planted on the former Chamisal site next door to Talley Vineyards. I recently tasted some winemaker friends up in Oregon on this Pinot, who were extremely impressed by its penetrating perfume, seamless texture, and sheer length of silk and intensity.
But don't forget, as I mentioned earlier, to pay attention to Mendocino and the Sonoma Coast styles during the next few years. They may very well surpass the Russian River Valley, and rival the best from France!
[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 06-04-2000).]
- winoweenie - 06-07-2000
Randy, I just remembered some great Heitz Cellars Pinots from 1962-63-and 64. I bought about 6 assorted cases and all of them turned out to be absolutely nifty. Yep! I do go back a while. Winoweenie
- Randy Caparoso - 06-07-2000
Well, grandpa, as long as you're not spinning tall tales about 'em to the young'ens.
- winoweenie - 06-08-2000
Randy, Never spin them tall tales. Get winded too easily now.Try to keep everything short, concise, and pointless. Winoweenie