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+--- Thread: merlot vs cabernet (/thread-18220.html)
- autumn - 04-07-2006
I'm writing a paper comparing and contrasting Merlot and Cabernet. Im googled out. I would just like a little information on these two wines, and maybe another web address that I can look some more information up. I do not know much about wine, the more sites that I have been to the more and more I'm intrigued about wine. I've learned a little in the restaurant that I work in, but not enough to be satisfied with. Can you help?
- Innkeeper - 04-08-2006
Hi Autumn, and welcome to the Wine Board.
Several years ago, well decades now, 60 Minutes ran a segment called “The French Paradox.†The gist of the piece was that red wine let Frenchmen live longer than they otherwise deserved. Almost immediately red wine became more popular in the U.S. than white wine for the first time in a long time. When folks went to restaurants looking for red wine they were presented with Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon had recently usurped Red Zinfandel as the most popular red wine. The reason for the later development was that Zinfandel producers had settled the argument about who could make the most overblown Zinfandel in the world by consumers who turned to Cabernet. So, the Red Zinfandel producers turned their grapes over to the White Zinfandel producers, and Cabernet producers ruled the world. The problem was that the folks who flocked to restaurants looking for red wine and were served Cabernet, found many iterations of it a little harsh. Then along came Merlot.
Merlot had for centuries been a blending grape, primarily in Bordeaux. Even on the East Bank of the Garonne, where people claimed the wine was made from Merlot, the fact is that Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon were blended in. The Franc sometimes in almost equal quantities, and it added much character and depth. Merlot is soft and singularly dimensional, and that is what it lends to most blends. There were and are a few tiny places in Europe where varietal (single grape wines) Merlot does well because age of vines and terrior add dimensions to it. Collio in Italy is one on those, and I enjoy Collio Merlot to this day. Other Italian Merlot has been planted and made in the post French Paradox era, and is just as bad as American, Australian, and Chilean Merlot.
Back to post paradox America. Very little Merlot was being grown, and consequently very little was varietally produced. Some of it that was, was not too bad. Sort of like the little pockets in Europe. Then restaurateurs and their customers discovered that Merlot was much more approachable than Cabernet Sauvignon. The race was on regarding who could grow and produce more Merlot than anyone else. Restaurants could not get allocations, people bitched, and more Merlot was produced. The wine that people were clamoring for was singularly dimensional and loaded with oak. So why did people like it?
Simultaneously with development of Merlot was Oaky Chardonnay. Originally Chardonnay was made in a variety of ways, lots of them good. Then some producers discovered that the most expensive Chardonnay in the world came from tiny little places in Burgundy that aged very special Chardonnay in old oak barrels. So New Word producers led by America, started oaking virtually all Chardonnay. This has reached the point where even inexpensive Chardonnay is treated with tea bags of toasted oak sawdust. Somewhere along the way restaurateurs and wine writers mutually got on this oak bandwagon. Oak marries well with multi dimensional wines like Cabernet Sauvignon. It overpowers wines that have little to offer like most Chardonnay and Merlot.
So, now we have a country, if not a universe, that thinks that wine should taste like wood and not like grapes. That Autumn is the story of Merlot. Maybe someone will tell you a Cabernet Sauvignon story.
- robr - 04-08-2006
A friend of mine, who drinks micro-brews primarily, is just starting in get into wine (bc i keep nagging him, and he's finally getting interested). One thing he keeps telling me is how much he likes the oak flavor in wines, and that the more oak he can taste, the "better" the wine.
I can't explain it.
- wdonovan - 04-17-2006
IK,
Loved that mini 'histoire de vin'. Especially "singularly dimensional and loaded with oak". Makes me hate new world wines even more than yesterday. I am glad to see an affirmation of my opinion that new world wines taste "sanitized". Your phrase "singularly dimensional" is actually a more accurate description of my take on Cali wines. Now if I could only convince you to proclaim "Buying Europeans wine is paying for wine. Buying California wine is paying for real estate and expensive lifestyles". Then there would be two people that think exactly like me and the world would be a little closer to being a perfect place to work and play.
Disclaimer: This post is only half serious (maybe 5/7). It is not meant to start a war.
- winoweenie - 04-17-2006
Dislaimers aside do you really think you can buy acreage in Bordeaux or Burgandy cheaper than in Calif? WW
- wdonovan - 04-17-2006
In a word, "No". But all of France ain't Bordeaux prices and all of the Cali real estate is Cali prices. France also isn't covered with Porsches and mega-optioned H3's either (the lifestyle part of my ramblings).
Seriously, to me wine is more than a juice. It's beginnings hail from sweat, tears, love of the land.... Hell, to many French vintners, wine is almost a living breathing thing. The vines are as revered as the family. Vinyards have survived hundreds of years. Wars after wars have gone through while vintners have hidden vines like they were priceless art, solely to defend them against ruthless burnings. Alcoves in cellars were painstakingly walled up to hide important bottles against invaders. I guess what I'm saying is that when I buy French wine, I'm paying for the wine AND the passion, the romance, part of the soul of the man who put it into the bottle. I just don't get that feeling from the west coast wines. I once parked my rental car at the spot where I could simultaneously see the vinyards of Latache, Richeburg, Romanee-Conti and it was almost a religious experience. I avoided for 6 months drinking a newly released 96 Avize so I could first taste it with Mr. Chiquet at the Jacquesson Champagne house. To me, these feelings are as important part of wine as the wine itself. I just don't get this from my neighbors in California. But..... that's me.
- Innkeeper - 04-17-2006
WD don't get the impression from my remarks that I'm a Europaphile or a Califoriaphobe. I'm about 50-50. I just don't like much New World Merlot or Chardonnay. Have had a few nice Merlot, most reserve; and there are some nice oak free Chards particularly from down under. Love their Zinfandel, Cab, Shiraz/Syrah, other Rhone Rangers, Pinots from here and there, Rieslings from here and there, and Northern Californian Barbera.
For blends, there are some nice Meritages from the Left Coast, and blends from Oz, but mostly look east for my preferences.
- redsauced - 04-17-2006
WD
IMO, just because we in Cali are still babies historically does not mean that we lack passionate, sensitive, and land loving winemakers and caretakers. True there are rich people paying high prices for land and crashing the party, but there are many family run operations that go back several generations. These folks are as tied to the earth as their counterparts are in France. Not to mention the numerous transplanted Euros now working on wine in Cali. I believe one can have a love of the land regardless of when they pitch their tent.
I have been trying to understand and relate to Bordeaux for years now and the challenge while rewarding at times is a real crapshoot and can be expensive. If this is a righteous love affair with the land why does good Bordeaux cost so much? I also adore White Burgundy, and I pay a fortune for it because it pleases me in a tactile way, not intellectually. As a neophyte I welcome a history lesson, but I take comfort at times knowing what to expect when I pop the cork.(saves embarrasment at dinner parties) There is a quality to much of Cali
that I can count on year after year, and frankly it's only getting better. I don't want to sound like a philistine, and I don't have the exp.of the erudite members of the board. (your post was lovely) I only know that cali vintners have much to offer, the wine and the people who make it are accessible, friendly, and open to the possibilities of future.
- winoweenie - 04-17-2006
WD this will be my last post on this thread as I don't believe in absolutions that have nothing in common with reality, only the firm conviction of the poster. I've had the same religious experience sitting with Al Braunstein at his Lake vineyard and drinking a glass of his 74 Volcanic Hill or with Chuck Wagner in his bib overalls behind his modest home with him opening his 75 Special Selection, or many other of the great Calif pioneer winemakers Like Winarski, Joe Phelps, Robert Mondavi et.al as they displayed their comittment, passion and expertise to the land, wines, and quality commitment that the great vintners of France have shown for centuries. These attributes are not singularly possessed by the French as you so nimbly imply, but from what I've witnessed over many years, something every talented producer of the juice has imbued in his/her soul from the get-go. WW ( You state that all of Bordeaux 'haint France...well Bubba, all of Calif 'Haint Napa.)
[This message has been edited by winoweenie (edited 04-17-2006).]
- wdonovan - 04-18-2006
ww,
OK The '74 Diamond Creek might do it.
- wondersofwine - 04-18-2006
I agree with WW and Red that there are passionate grapegrowers and winemakers in California as well as in Europe--Brian Loring, Merry Edwards, Susie Selby, and so many more. I do feel that some of the domestics have priced me out of the market. I once had a limit of $30 for a domestic wine and $50 for an imported wine. I have since overspent both figures on occasion but still rarely go over those limits, maybe up to $45 now and then for a California or Washington or Oregon wine that I really like. Ridge is one fine winery that has pretty much held the line on prices (for the zins--I guess their Monte Bello is more pricy).
[This message has been edited by wondersofwine (edited 04-18-2006).]