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+--- Thread: Zinfandel and Carignan Research (/thread-17013.html)
- Jenaroo - 05-09-1999
Hey everyone! Can anyone tell me the primary and developed fruit charachters for Zinfandel OR Carignan
[This message has been edited by Jenaroo (edited 05-10-99).]
- Jerry D Mead - 05-10-1999
Zinfandel, like most other grapes, yields different flavors and styles in different "terroirs."
In the Dry Creek or Russian River area of Sonoma...and in some areas of Napa, Zinfandel will show classic raspberry qualities and something that gets called "brambly" that you sort of have to experience to recognize..it's a sort of wild and earthy aspect of the berriness. Hints of black pepper in the background are fairly common (and very attractive) as well.
In warmer climates like Amador and Paso Robles, you start to get into plums which can easily edge towards prunes...at the worst comes raisins...and all of the above are fairly common from very hot interior valleys, especially from Fresno south to Bakersfield.
Zin can also tend naturally toward very high, almost fortified, levels of alcohol. 16+% is not uncommon with no high-proof added.
A well made berry-fruited Zin when fully developed can be nearly impossible to distinguish from well-aged Cabernet. It's been about 20 years since I had one, but a large cache of 1935 Simi Zin was discovered and not only was it alive and well at age 40-plus, it was indistinguisable from old claret.
Zin likes to be dry-farmed, head-pruned and old-vined. It tends to ripen unevenly. It is very common to see perfectly ripened fruit, green berries and raisins...all on the same bunch.
JDM
- Randy Caparoso - 05-19-1999
Hi, Jeneroo!
Haven't heard from you for a while.
Regarding Zinfandel, there isn't much more to add to Curmudgeon's description. Top quality California Zinfandels are indeed quite full in alcohol, and attain a luscious, velvety texture to go with their intensely berryish, almost jammy (i.e. raspberry or blackberry preserves) fruit and blackpeppery (sometimes cinnamon and clove-like) spiciness. But even lighter, moderately intense Zinfandel can be delightfully fresh, zesty, and flavorful.
From what I understand, several Australian wineries are now experimenting with Zinfandel (I tried one at Hardy's four years ago), although it's still a big controversy as to where Zinfandel as a grape originated. Vine scientists (ampelographers) know that it is a member of the European vitis vinifera, and that it is grown in parts of southern Italy (such as Apulia) where it is known as Primitivo. However, evidence suggests that Primitivo arrived in Italy fairly recently (whereas Zinfandel has been cultivated in California since the mid 19th century). Recent frequent visitors (such as Mike Grgich of Napa Valley's Grgich Hills) to the nearby coastal regions of Croatia are pretty sure that Zinfandel is the same grape as Plavic Mali, which appears to have had a longer history there. Although the red wines made in Croatia are strikingly similar to California's Zinfandel, so far scientists have not made able to ascertain the relationship (initial DNA findings, for instance, are coming up negative).
One thing I can tell you for sure: there is absolutely no relationship between Zinfandel and Carignane except for the fact that both varieties have been cultivated in California for some time. Carignane -- known as Carignano in Italy and Carinena in Spain -- is probably most important as a blending grape in Spain and parts of South-West France (especially the Languedoc-Roussillon). It is also an important grape in Algeria. By itself, Carignane tends to produce a wine that is extremely high in alcohol, tannin, color and acidity -- everything, as Jancis Robinson puts it, "but flavour and charm." She does not exaggerate. Even when Carignane achieves a modicum of flavor, it tends to be a rather overbearing, overripe, sweet, perfumey cherry quality. Personally, I am not even that fond of red wines in which Carignane plays just a small part (it is often blended with Syrah and Mourvedre in both California and France), since it tends to push those kinds of blends towards that annoyingly sweet tone.
There are, however, some exceptions. From some very old, extremely low yielding plantings in California and France, even 100% can be somewhat interesting. The best I've ever had has been the Domaine d'Aupilhac "Le Carignane" cuvee from the Languedoc (imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley); which is a full, powerful, fleshy, deep toned, wild tasting red of astonishing breadth and depth.
Hope this information helps!
- Jerry D Mead - 05-21-1999
Simi made a varietal Carignane in the Russ Green days that was delicious.
And when George Bursick was the winemaker at McDowell Valley Vineyards in Mendocino, they had a "Red Table Wine" that was just spectacular, until one day it all of a sudden became just another ordinary red table wine. When I pinned George down as to what had happened...he confessed that a 50 year old Carignane vineyard had been replanted to something else (I don't remember what now) and that had been the secret ingredient...also that he had aged stocks of it ranging from 5-10 years old.
George said "that" Carignane smelled like old cigar butts til it got about five years old, when it took on the characteristics of claret!
JDM
- Randy Caparoso - 05-21-1999
A belated Happy 60th to you, Curmudgeon. After posting, it occurred to me that the most recent good Carignane that I've tasted is the '96 Pellegrini Family "Old Vines" (retailing between just $12 and $14). My notes show that these are from 50-60 year old head pruned vines grown at the Cloverdale Ranch, and aged in old French and American oak; powerful, cinnamon stick spiced red cherry aroma, medium full, generous, yet surprisingly well rounded, pliant flavors. A little simple for my taste, perhaps, but certainly classy by any standard.
- Thomas - 05-22-1999
Randy, glad you said that about the Pelligrini. Has been a favorite of mine since I discovered their Carignane three years ago. A reasonable table wine with a few interesting qualities, and not expensive in my book.