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- ShortWiner - 04-03-2003
This article was printed in yesterday's NY Times:
A 'Heretic' Ruffles Feathers in France
By JACQUELINE FRIEDRICH
PARIS
TO many French purists, selling wine by the name of a grape — chardonnay, for example, or merlot — is heresy. But the French wine industry is in trouble, and the way out may lie in the ideas of a man viewed by many as a heretic.
Over the past three years, the country's wines have been losing ground in foreign markets. Indeed, Australian wines, particularly varietal wines, those sold by the name of the grape, have overtaken French labels in the United Kingdom. And Jacques Berthomeau, a consultant to the French government, is espousing a philosophy along the lines of "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em."
Easier said than done. French winemaking is highly regulated, and individual growers cannot just decide to try out new grapes or new blends. But wine production is crucial for France: it is the country's most profitable agricultural export and follows only Airbus as the most important export across the board. In 2000, the latest year for which figures are available, wine exports earned $5.25 billion.
"The problem is that we have too much wine and that our wines are not adapted to the current market," Mr. Berthomeau said. "We need to put the consumer first."
Marc Parcé, the owner of Domaine de la Rectorie, a winery in the Roussillon region, supports Mr. Berthomeau but said: "He bothers the right because he doesn't talk about government subsidies. He irritates the extreme left because he talks about the reality of the marketplace, and then he bothers other people because he points out that some wines have no business being in appellations at all."
When the minister of agriculture, Jean Glavany, wanted to study the challenges New World wines posed to France, he tapped Mr. Berthomeau, an adviser on wine to previous ministers of agriculture. Mr. Berthomeau issued his report, "How to Better Position French Wines in the Export Market," in 2001.
French winemaking has traditionally been based on terroir, a word that does not translate easily into English. It denotes the idea that wines derive their particular characters from the specifics of a vineyard, with the climate and soil combining to give each wine its unique stamp of identity. Mr. Berthomeau's report questions the blanket application of this approach, saying that France would be more competitive if more of its wines were sold like New World wines: by the name of the grape.
Mr. Berthomeau envisions a future with parallel approaches to wine. "One is the traditional vigneron model, which emphasizes the place of origin, the terroir and man," he said. "The second is an approach resembling that of any other beverage, like beer or mineral water, an approach based on the creation of brands, like Australia's Jacob's Creek. It's wine at two speeds, and I think we should do them both."
The first approach would involve the wines produced under the appellation d'origine contrôlée, or A.O.C., system. Created in 1936, it was intended as a guarantee that a certain wine came from a certain geographic zone. Half of French wines have A.O.C. designations.
Mr. Berthomeau's report ruffled feathers when he noted that many a mediocre (or worse) wine hid behind the fame of an appellation, thus undermining the very notion of terroir. Bordeaux, for example, conjures images of noble wines aging in cool cellars. Some of the luster attached to names like Pétrus and Latour rubs off on ordinary Bordeaux rouge, which is often very ordinary indeed.
"We always say that an A.O.C. should make people dream," Mr. Berthomeau said. "But when you pay the same price for a bottle of Bordeaux as you pay for a package of spaghetti, is that going to make you dream?"
That is due in part to overproduction, Mr. Berthomeau said. He advised strictly observing the limits the A.O.C. regulations set for how much wine an appellation can produce. Overproduction reduces the quality of a wine, and can also result in unsold stock. Last year Beaujolais produced so much wine that the equivalent of 13 million bottles was distilled into industrial alcohol.
In vast industrial vineyard regions like Languedoc-Roussillon, Mr. Berthomeau says, wines should be tailored to what the average wine drinker wants.
"When I took the train from Paris to Brussels, I was served an Australian shiraz," he said, still taken aback by the experience. "Our vineyards in Béziers could easily make varietal wines like that. They may be less noble, but they get drunk."
WHAT Mr. Berthomeau proposes is the creation of brands like Blue Nun; Mouton Cadet; owned by Mouton-Rothschild; and Jacob's Creek, owned by the French company Pernod-Ricard. They would be professional, well-made wines that are easy to understand and export, are reasonably priced, are the same year after year and reinvest earnings in marketing and publicity as brands like Budweiser or Perrier do. They might blend grapes from different regions and could be sold under labels like Cépages (varietals) de France, Chardonnay de France or Merlot de France.
In the United States, some can-do company would create such a brand. But in France, the growers' unions and administrative bodies involved in making and marketing wine would have to agree on the drafting of a new law. So far, they do not.
Vintners from the south, who produce 85 percent of France's varietal wines (under the label Vin de Pays d'Oc), are strongly opposed to Mr. Berthomeau's proposition. Last year those growers protested in Montpellier because they had too much wine and could not sell it.
But Mr. Berthomeau has supporters. Peter M. F. Sichel, a New Yorker who is the majority shareholder of the popular Bordeaux estate Château Fourcas-Hosten, said: "If he succeeds in convincing the French wine trade to change and become consumer-oriented, it will bring French wine into the 21st century."
- stevebody - 04-04-2003
Berthomeau is an accomplished ruffler of feathers and his unapologetic habit of telling the truth as he sees it is so un-French that it probably drives a lot of the wine trade crazy that people listen to him.
France has made some of the world's most profound wines. No argument with that. But the fact is that many Americans, when they achieve a certain level of wine knowledge above pure novice status, feel that there is some need to learn, buy, and drink French wines. I've been to a dozen blind tastings of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Rhones in the past ten years at which I or someone else has inserted a ringer - like a Caymus Cab in a blind Bordeaux Tasting - and had that wine be the one that everyone drank, preferred, and discussed. We had 18 different opinions on which Chateau had produced that delicious Bordeaux and, of course, none of them was even in the right continent.
The whole business of terroir is, IMHO, horribly overworked. Every wine weenie friend I have in Seattle can wax on and ON about the vital importance of geography but none of them can tell you why a California Cab with few regional characteristics is what's open on their sideboard. The French, I believe, hide behind that old warhorse notion that Place Is All in order to excuse wines that have few pleasing characteristics to recommend them. Barthomeau is exactly right: the entire world of wine is moving in the direction of drinking across national borders and selecting by varietal and France is rowing as hard as it can in the opposite direction. Politics aside, France deserves a certain amount of respect for its past glories but the average wine buyer - that 95% of the wine-buying public - is under no obligation to buy anything French just because an '82 Cheval Blanc made people see stars. The wine trade is very much, and rightly so, a what-have-you-done-for-me-lately proposition.
Ultimately, this "debate" in France means just exactly zippo. France WILL adopt new attitudes toward how it presents its wines or it will cease to be the prime wine region on the planet. I have seen this coming for at least a decade: my restaurant customers skipping the French list in favor of something new and exciting from Spain or Austrailia or Washington; younger diners dismissing Bordeaux as "old peoples' wines"; many, many people simply refusing to drink anything that doesn't offer a clearly marked varietal choice; or the simple fact that wine production has exploded so dynamically in the past decade that the sheer volume of choices obscures the French segment of the market. The largest trend I've seen is people "discovering" Italian and Spanish wines; warmer, more-friendly wines that thumb their noses at the Gallic notions of austerity and restraint. We are a "bang for the buck" society and the rest of the world, right or wrong, are adopting a lot of our attitudes. As a salesman of fine and value wines, I just can't, when someone comes to me and says, "I need a really great bottle of wine that goes for under $25", recommend a Bordeaux. The big, sumptuous ones cost a LOT more and the sub-25 ones are too wimpy and undistinguished to compete with things like a Zenato Ripasso, a Ferrari-Carano Siena, an Allende Rioja, a Condado de Haza, a Mitolo Jester, a Ballantyne Zin, an Allegrini Palazzo della Torre, a Nitardi Chianti, or a L'Ecole No. 41 Schoolhouse Red.
The French vintners who have been practically spat upon for producing varietal bottlings have made a lot of $$$ on them. That's probably what pisses the terroiristes off. Their attitude that people should buy their stuff because it's a serious expression of some hillside in the Northern Rhone is rooted in a fading assumption of their own superiority. They can, IMHO, change or die. Barthomeau will be villified, as prophets usually are, but he'll be vindicated by that oldest and most powerful force: the inevitable evolution of the marketplace.
[This message has been edited by stevebody (edited 04-04-2003).]
- Thomas - 04-05-2003
I don't think the argument for "terroir" is nonsense, just as sure as I don't think the argument for varietal is nonsense--each concept has its proper place and should be viewed in perspective rather than invective.
is-wine sells both types of wines, and many of the varietals come from the French. The point being: every good wine is seen at is-wine as merely a good wine, nothing more--nothing less--and we enjoy the individuality of the product, for whatever reason it expresses its individuality.
[This message has been edited by foodie (edited 04-05-2003).]
- Bucko - 04-05-2003
Anyone who doesn't believe in terroir just needs to taste two or three wines from producers of Riesling using Erdener Treppchen Vineyard grapes. Classic.
- stevebody - 04-05-2003
Jesus Christ, you guys, I never said I didn't believe in terroir. I said it was "horribly overworked. I've tried four German Reislings from Heyl zu Herrensheim that came from four vineyard plots arranged in a 4 acre quadrant on one hillside, separated only by fences, and they were as individual as snowflakes. Terroir exists, obviously. What I'm SAYING is, the average or casual wine buyer - which is what makes up 90-95% of the country's annual wine sales; Dept. of Ag. figures, not mine - neither understands nor particularly cares about terroir as an element of the purchase decision. What they want is a wine that TASTES GOOD and that they understand. However that good flavor comes about is a pretty secondary issue. It's only us wine-weenies who become obsessively concerned with stuff like terroir, overcropping, malolactic fermentation, brix, and all the rest of that crap. MOST people drink wine for two reasons: 1) They like it, and 2) It services their self image and chosen lifestyle.
I spent a lifetime in acting. I know tons of stuff about technique, backstory, subtext, timing, and other actorly stuff - not to mention cameras, lighting, make-up, set design, etc. - that means precisely dick to anyone watching my performance. They want me to tell them a story in a convincing way and let them emotionally invest for a couple of hours. They do not care how my performance came to be, just that it did.
It's maddening to me that we lade the wonderful, sensual, intensely pleasurable act of drinking wine down with so many qualifiers, disclaimers, modifications, and obsessions. I have a friend in Seattle who is a sommelier (sp). The guy knows a hell of a lot about wine but, every once in a while, he'll sidle up to me and say, "Hey, if we crack open a bottle of something nice out of my cellar tonight, you think the four of us could take a solemn vow that we won't talk about ANYTHING related to wine? I just, for God's Sake, want to enjoy a bottle for a change."
It's also a little disappointing that you, Foodie, can't seem to brook any ideas that go against your own beliefs without trying to cast a strong opinion as invective. Consult your dictionary (to adopt a tone as haughty as your own) and see what the word actually means. There is an element of mean-spiritedness in the meaning that I carry none of. I simply think the French have gotten away with a lot of cosmetic crap and exhibited a stupendous resistence to change, seeming to believe that we will all ecentually realize that their way of doing things is correct and that, if we don't, that simply means we're unwashed heathens. Well, baloney. They make a whale of a lot of crap, in addition to their great wines, and they NEED to respect our preferences IF they want to sell massive quantities of wines to our casual buyers. Argue that point all you want. Won't change a thing.
And, you, Bucko - you're too damned smart to come to the conclusion that Batrhomeau and I "don't believe in terroir". Nothing in either post indicated that.
- Thomas - 04-05-2003
Call me crazy, maybe even haughty, but words like "crap" comments like "hide behind warhorse notion" sound an awful lot like invective (n.; a strong verbal attack--Oxford Modern English).
And if I choose to respond to ideas with counter ideas I hardly think a discerning mind could interpret that act as meaning I do not brook (v.tr.; tolerate) the ideas, but merely disagree (v.intr.; hold a different opinion...) and choose to say so. I admit, however, that I sometimes wonder why I choose to say so!
And the paragraph I wrote about our philosophy of selling wine fits into what SB says he believes about the consumer. Yet, those who grow grapes and produce wine MUST hold on to truths about what constitutes identity as well as quality. "Terroir" is only one of those truths.
[This message has been edited by foodie (edited 04-05-2003).]
- dananne - 04-05-2003
(Keeping my head low as I offer my .02)
I believe that terroir is and will continue to be important to some consumers. It should always be important to producers (but frequently, probably, is not, as the mass plantings of ill-suited varietals in the Central Valley probably testify). Terroir does impact my buying decisions as a consumer. That having been said, however, I am probably not the typical American consumer. Most wine in America is consumed within 24 hours of purchase by folks who probably do not understand the concept of terroir, or perhaps have not even heard the term. I think most Americans purchase wine with three things in mind. In no particular order, they are price point, labeled varietal, and recognizable brand (that offers consistency and safety in purchase). I think there will always be a market for wines labeled as the French choose to label. I think, however, that the concept of terroir can be expressed on the label, though, even if the wine is labeled varietally. Take Ken Wright Cellars, for example. They put out, what, a dozen or so varietally-labeled Pinots, each with a specific vineyard designation. Year to year, those who care about terroir can likely discern differing vineyard characteristics and recognize individual elements of terroir.
What I'm trying to say, and perhaps not doing a good job of it, is that to me, terroir and varietal labeling are not mutually exclusive. Furthermore, for the entry-level mass consumer, French labels are not preferred. However, that does not mean that wines labeled the way the French do can not continue to have a share in today's market.
[This message has been edited by dananne (edited 04-05-2003).]
- Drew - 04-05-2003
"The whole business of terroir is, IMHO, horribly overworked."
If you mean, beat to death or over marketed, I would agree but who's at fault here? The French or the rest of the world? It seems to me that to market a product you need a buzz word. Terroir is natural to their language and as wine became trendy in this country and Americans demand, "product uniqueness", terroir became the buzz word to promote their product. Ford, GM, Polo, Calvin Klein, Hoover, Dirt Devil etc, etc, etc. do it every day, buzz words...exclusivity. It has absolutly nothing to do with product quality and everything to do with the color of green, or whatever color a Franc note is. I tend to not involve myself in these types of discussions because to me they're meaningless. I drink wine because I like it, and it likes me. I can drink to my fill, pair it with many foods, be social and romantic with it and it doesn't bite me. Occassional overindulgence doesn't leave me wasted and feeling bad. But to ponder terroir and French wine almost as a French conspiracy to manipulate the American masses and disguise bad wine is a story, just maybe well left for Hollywood. The French are really no more different than any other ancient society that believes that they can do certain things a little better than we, particularly food and drink related, given they've had thousands of years experience to our several hundred. I consider myself above average where wine knowledge is concerned but I don't include myself in the Order of Wine-Weenies. I also believe that most who participate on this board arn't card carrying members either. As an observation it seems to me that you obsess and lade the pleasurable act of drinking wine down with qualifiers, disclaimers etc. by your numerous posts that, quite frankly, carry a condesending tone. I would suggest you spend some more time with your Seattle friend and stop over analyizing wine you drink beyond "Tastes Good" or Tastes Bad". This is all presented as opinion and in good cheer, SB, personnaly I enjoy your recs and knowledgeable offerings.
Drew
- Georgie - 04-05-2003
SB, I normally enjoy reading the thoughts you have to offer, but I must say that I find the profanity used in your last post on this thread offensive.
- Bucko - 04-05-2003
Not pointing any fingers, just giving a good example of terroir..... nothing more.
- winoweenie - 04-05-2003
Holy-Moly youse guys... what started this here brouhaha? Guarantee you there is merit to terrior. When you can walk less than 36 acres of contiginous soil and the only difference is the soils makeup and the whole vineyard is planted with the exact same vines and yet there are 4 different tasting wines produced you have positive proof of terrior....I'm talking about Diamond Creek Vineyards. I think the idea that the frenchies are thinking of varietal labeling is kinda' neat. Now all of you fellers kiss'n'makeup or so help mt Sadie I'll squeal and tell IK whenced him returnith. And by-th-by who gave any-ones the authority to use my name when describing this here subject??? WW [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/biggrin.gif[/img] (the weener)
- vinman - 04-05-2003
Geeze!
Seems that we are bit off track! Whether or not we subscribe to the belief that terroir is an influence on the purchasing habits of the average American consumer, which it does not, the arguement becomes moot, for mainstream retailers. What is more important, is our accepetance that wines, from many regions, exhibit individual characteristics that some or all of us recognize as unique to the growing region. It is our hope that through distribution, our customers will have the opportunity to experience some of the same pleasures!
- Thomas - 04-06-2003
Exactly, vinman. That is why at my shop we do not focus on concepts like terroir or varietals--we talk about the individual merits of the wine. At the same time, we explain (to those interested in learning) the concept of terroir as well as explain varietals--we do that in a formal class, and sometimes in informal conversations on the retail floor.
I think the best sales tool is education and the best route toward educating is to know your audience.
ww, this is the rants and raves section--we are doing just that. IK would be proud...
right here I would embed one of those smiley faces, but in this medium I am woefully technically inferior!!!
[This message has been edited by foodie (edited 04-06-2003).]
- Bucko - 04-06-2003
All wines of the world are inferior to those from Idaho, especially spud wine. Fabulous complexity, depth, length, balance, and a lingering aftertaste. 101 points!
[img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img]
- Kcwhippet - 04-06-2003
All due to terroir is my guess, Bucko. [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/wink.gif[/img]
- Drew - 04-06-2003
Here's an interesting article to get back on track.
http://www.wineloverspage.com/dressner/terroir.shtml
Drew
- Thomas - 04-06-2003
So Bucko, can I borrow one of those eyelid-moving faces?
You know, a lot of Northfork, Long Island vineyards are planted on old potato farms, and I swear I can roast some of the wines to have with steak...
- ShortWiner - 04-07-2003
To me the excitement of wine is in it's endless variety. So personally, I think I'd like it if France stayed just the way it is. I like the idea that there's a big country over the ocean that makes a bunch of wines I don't yet understand. Yeah, even if a lot of it isn't any good (that just seems to be the way it is with wine, everywhere). I love that I can always go see Foodie at is-wine or read Roberto's mailer and discover a wine I haven't heard of. Or just pick something out at the store, take it home and read up on it, then give it a try. There's so much out there to try and experience! This wine dork's just hoping there will be as much variety when my grandchildren come over for a bottle from my cellar.
Matt
PS Foodie, to get the bug-eyed face, just type " [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/eek.gif[/img]" without the quotation marks.
- Thomas - 04-07-2003
shortwiner, I don't write this thing in HTML.
- ShortWiner - 04-07-2003
Oops, didn't realize it would make the face even in quotation marks. Hehe, sorry. Okay, just type ":eek:" I disabled the smilies in this post, so it should work.