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The "New, Improved (?) Rhone Rangers" - Printable Version

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- Randy Caparoso - 09-18-1999

During the past few months a few new producers of Rhone style blends have entered the market, upping the ante in this category of wine.

First, an assessment of the "first generation" of so-called Rhone Rangers:

1. Their heyday -- or period of real excitment (or forgiveness for less-than-perfect quality) -- was 5 to 10 years ago.

2. Some of the more aggressive marketers of this style of wine (i.e. Cline, Jade Mountain, McDowell Valley, Bonny Doon, et al.) have experienced their ups-and-downs -- producing a few truly heady, daring, flavorful things, but probably more coarse, rough, disjointed stuff which have proven (to me, at least) to be a lot less food-worthy than what they were touted to be.

Let's put it this way: I have found few products by the original California Rhone Rangers to be as interesting as the bevy of good, solid, better-priced products available from the Rhone and South of France, or from Australia for that matter.

Now, for the new:

1. Tablas Creek -- Beaucastel's project (a combination of a producing estate and Rhone varietal nursery of authentic Rhone clones) in rocky, limestone rich hills of Paso Robles -- has just released its second vintaged red. It is a 30% Syrah/30% Grenache/34% Mourvedre/6% Counoise blend that is slightly duller than it sounds. The flavors are tight, fairly juicy and sweet; but the structure, overpowering itself with hefty, plodding tannin. The individual components (tasted at the site last spring) are intense and significant enough (these new clones will eventually make an enormous impact on the market), but so far the Tablas blends have lacked two essential components: brightness, and the supple, sensuous (or "hedonistic,"
as Parker would put it) feel which are part and parcel of the attraction of Rhone style wines.

2. The first vintage of the new Mondavi project called Io -- based in the old Byron facility on Tepusquet Rd. in Santa Barbara -- is a 64% Syrah/19% Grenache/17% Mourvedre blend from the '96 vintage. It is (predictably) generously oaked, but stupendously rich -- smoky/flinty, sweet violet aromas and dense, thick, plummy fruit, meaty and beautifully textured. Unlike the still-evolving Tablas, it will be interesting to see if subsequent vintages can match it.

At any rate, these are the two major players here at the end of the Millennium. Meanwhile, I'm happy to report that the newly released 1997 Bonny Doon "Le Cigar Volant" -- the seminal Rhone Ranger blend -- is probably the best of the past decade by this highly respected producer. Everything, for once, is here -- ripe, smoky (burnt leaf), peppery spiced aromas with lush fruit and tea-like nuances, and powerfully full yet round, elegantly balanced flavors giving a suave, masculine feel. Randall Grahm appears to be back in the saddle!

As far as the original Rangers are concerned, the most consistent producer over the past decade has probably been Bob Lindquist of Qupe. But I'm not talking so much about his fine yet fun, bouncy "Central Coast" Syrahs and "Bien Nacido Cuvees," but his piece de resistance cuvees bottled as "Bien Nacido Hillside Select" (one cut above the Qupe "Bien Nacido Reserve") -- enormously perfumed and plush, gravity defying, pure Syrahs from a just coming-into-maturity planting on a slope overlooking the bulk of the Bien Nacido Vineyard and Au Bon Climat/Qupe winery in Santa Maria Valley.

Other producers which I would in a "1st" category for these style of wines (blends as well as pure Syrahs): Sine Qua Non, Babcock, Havens and Neyers. I've just added Bonny Doon back in; and one to keep an eye on (but, like Tablas Creek, is not quite there yet) is Alban Vineyards.

All for now from this reporter.


- Bucko - 09-18-1999

I'd throw Paraiso Springs on the list....

Bucko


- Jason - 09-19-1999

Randy - You present a valid point as to the students (Cali) producing more expensive examples than the great wines that set the standard. I have never understood this one.
The Rhone makes so many good wines that are inexpensive. At a certain point, why not just drink the original?


- Randy Caparoso - 09-19-1999

Always the pervasive question. But I must say that the very best California has produced thus far -- Qupe's "Hillside Selects," the Io, and maybe three, at the most four vintages of Le Cigare Volant -- have been pretty much the equal to the top Northern and Southern Rhone growths which, as you know, have reached some stratospheric price ranges (re Beaucastel, Guigal, Telegraphe, Clape, Rayas, et al.). Overall, of course, the best values do come from France.

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 09-19-99).]


- Jason - 09-20-1999

Randy - As a side note, we went to your location in Bonita Springs. Had a great time and we had the Roy's Pinot from Rex Hill and Iron Horse LD. Both were great, but the Iron Horse really was excellent. Nice job on the cuvee and service was strong as well. We'll definitely go back.


- Randy Caparoso - 09-20-1999

Wow! I'm thrilled that you liked it, Jason. It's always a scary thing when connoisseurs of good food and wine test you out. What did you think of our wine list? Ron Patak (our g.m./partner there) and I have been working hard on keeping it short, sweet, and fun.

Addendum: As far as Rhone style whites are concerned, personally I haven't been super thrilled with what I've seen. For instance, while interesting (and certainly extremely perfumed) most California Viogniers have been pretty tough and lean. Recently, however, I've been impressed with the Treana White, a luscious, smoky, minerally, and surprisingly well-knit and balanced blend of Marsanne and Viognier from the Santa Lucia Highlands. It's an unorthodox blend that one would not expect to work; but the Marsanne from that region seems to be intense and viscous enough to round out the wild, hard-edged elements common to most Viogniers and wines with even just a little Viognier. Other than that, the most successful Viogniers that I have been tasting recently have been the Cold Heaven bottlings coming out of the Au Bon Climat compound in Santa Barbara.


- Jason - 09-21-1999

Winelist was fun, I agree. Lots of interesting stuff that goes well with such diverse food. One of us had the fillet, everyone else shared a plethora of apps.
All was great. Even the non-foodie enjoyed it.
I left my name to be added to the mailing list, but if there is a better way to stay up on tastings and special events please let me know.


- Randy Caparoso - 09-21-1999

For Bonita Springs, the best way is the mailing list. We just did a Murphy-Goode dinner (last week while the hurricane raged on the East Coast), and there's a multi-course Champagne thing coming up in Nov.

More "white knight" Rhone Ranger stuff: What of Roussanne? Bonny Doon fans will probably remember the sensational "Le Sophiste" Roussanne/Marsanne blends vinified by Grahm in the earlier part of this past decade. His diseased vineyard source was ripped out a few years ago, and last year he came out with a '97 Roussanne (from Paso Robles) under a straight varietal label which was exotically perfumed -- honey, jasmine, lime and apricot pit -- but lean and coarse on the palate. In Santa Barbara, both Zaca Mesa and Qupe have come out with several vintages of somewhat lusher, rounder, fleshier varietal bottlings, but there is still a tendency to end up somewhat flabby (Alban's Edna Valley Roussanne tend to be even fatter). Meanwhile, Tablas Creek in Paso Robles has some interesting stuff (new French clonal material) coming up (tank samples are viscous and honeyed, but the wine has been going into their varietal white blends which so far have been a bit tough and dry).

In my opinion, California grown Roussanne is a wine which is just on the edge of greatness. All we need to see are a couple of producers who can turn out consistently bright, textured, elegant wines. The natural varietal aromatics are certainly powerful enough. It's just a matter of vintners putting it all together in packages fulfilling the promises of those wonderful, once and future Le Sophistes.


- misterjive - 09-28-1999

On a sidenote, RH Phillips should be commended for its attempt to take Rhone varieties mainstream in this country with their EXP line. The EXP Syrah is a frequent selection on many wine lists in my area, and while it does not have the earthy complexity of Old World Syrahs (no terroir--all fruit), it goes great with roast chicken or duck, depending on the sauce. I like the fact that I can walk into a restaurant and order a very drinkable bottle of Syrah for under $20, at wine list prices (the restaurant I work at charges $18 for EXP).
Incidentally, one of my favorite Syrahs, is the Colvecchio by Banfi (Tuscany). I would be interested to see how it compares to some of the Rhone Rangers' great offerings, since I have had few of these. I love the Bridgehead Mataro from Ridge, enjoy most Bonny Doon offerings, and like Alderbrook Syrah. And what about Joseph Phelps? Isn't he considered the grandaddy of the Rhone Rangers?


- Randy Caparoso - 09-28-1999

There are lots of "good" producers out there, but I was talking specifically about wines which pretty much stretch the boundaries of what people expect in the respective grapes. Not that bigger is necessarily better. But one has to admit, for instance, that St. Joseph makes extremely good, interesting Syrah based wines in the Rhone, but similar types from the Cote Rotie are somewhat more dramatic in scale.

RH Phillips, for instance, certainly makes delicious Rhone style reds and whites, but their wines tend to fall on the narrow, even lean, side. Or Qupe -- their "Central Coast" Syrah is a great value for drinking, their "Bien Nacido Reserve" Syrah intense and sensual, but it's their "Bien Nacido Hillside Select" that absolutely astounds the senses.

Joseph Phelps is a granddaddy, alright; but in spite of their historicity, one does not tend to write home about their Syrahs, which tend to be a bit lean. It's the same with, say, Louis Martini Merlot -- it may have been California's first, but it currently is not first in many people's mind when it comes to top rated Merlot.

That's all I'm saying.


- n144mann - 09-29-1999

Historicity....not a word you see everyday. You must be hell to play scrabble with Randy. Remind me not to wager anything I am not REALLY willing to lose. [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb/wink.gif[/img] Maybe with you I should stick to poker. Probably a lot safer for me....<grin>

Nancy



[This message has been edited by n144mann (edited 09-30-99).]


- Randy Caparoso - 11-20-1999

Can't help but feel the need to report on a few exciting California Syrahs -- mostly from the Central Coast -- which are finally beginning to fulfill the promise of the original Rhone Ranger movement in the late '80s. The following generation of Syrah producers definitely goes way beyond what we previously used to view as tops:

First, the '97 Jaffurs Santa Barbara Syrah is incredibly rich and meaty, with a feel that is all at once thick, lush, and well rounded. Even richer -- stuffed with sweetly spiced, jammy blackberry flavors -- is the enthrallingly aromatic '96 Fess Parker "Rodney's Reserve" Santa Barbara Syrah. Definitely a candididate for "King of the Wild Frontier."

Then there is the '97 Beckman Santa Barbara Syrah -- a big hunky style, with sweet, jammy, cracked peppercorn aromas studding black and blue fruit qualities. This bruiser does roughen the palate a little bit; which, however, would not ordinarily bother someone weaned on the classic Cornas bottlings of producers like Clape and Verset.

Then, I recently found a surprising one from Nevada County -- the '96 Indian Springs Syrah, which is a near dead-ringer for the original Rhone Valley style, its spiciness akin to the classic French quatre-epices ("four spice") mix of peppercorn, nutmeg, clove and ginger that go into southern French style wood grilled sausages. The tannins are moderate -- half-way between a typical St. Joseph and typical Hermitage -- and the flavors round and sweetly intense.

In the Best Buy department, the wise shopper should keep an eye out for the '98 Echelon Syrah (retailing for $10-$13), which carries a California appellation, and is filled with sweet, ripe, lush strawberry/vanillin aromas with light peppery spice and fruity, yet fleshy, feel.

Finally, outside of California, I can't help but feel like I'm doing a public service, pure and simple, by mentioning the '97 Carchelo Syrah ($9-$11) from Jumilla in Southeast Spain. This is a soft, plummy, medium bodied style, with juicy, pepery, blackberry skin aromas and a velvety, cushiony texture. Clear-cut evidence that California and Australia will definitely not have an exclusive on other-worldly style Syrah in the next Millennium!

But wait, there's more: What are the absolutely BIGGEST Syrahs currently available? I mean, the ones that can please the most masochistic, slap-happy red Rhone lovers (similar to the ever growing motley crew of Zin lovers). I would say that that would be the '97 Neyers "Hudson Vineyards" Syrah, which a pitch black, almost jaw breaking, critical mass of fruit, tannin, meat and muscle. From Australia, it would be a toss-up between the '97 D'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz (unrepentently huge, sinewy and concentrated) and the '96 Trevor Jones "Wild Witch Reserve/Dry Grown" Barossa Valley Shiraz. The latter must be tasted to be believed -- midnight blue-black, velvety, and so juicy, thick and concentrated that it practically dribbles from the bottle lip -- and if you see it and pass it up... well, you be nuthin' but a fool. 'Nuff said.


[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 11-20-1999).]


- miner49er - 11-23-1999

We just returned from a Vinters holiday at the Ahwanhee and during a dinner tried the Andrew Murray Syrah(1997). I was very impressed and have recently ordered a case. I would also add Terre Rouge to the list of producers who are making terrrific syrahs.